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HomeBuyer's GuideHow to Winterize an RV
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Buying Guide

How to Winterize an RV

Winterizing an RV is one of the most important maintenance tasks of the year. Water left in the plumbing system will freeze, expand, and crack pipes, fittings, and valves — leading to repairs that can run $500 to several thousand dollars. This step-by-step guide shows you exactly how to winterize your RV's plumbing system using either the compressed air method, the antifreeze method, or a combination of both.

Preparing for WinterizationBlowing Out the PlumbingAdding RV AntifreezeStorage Preparation

Preparing for Winterization

Before you start, gather your supplies: RV-specific non-toxic antifreeze (pink, propylene glycol-based; NOT automotive antifreeze), an air compressor with a blow-out plug adapter (available at RV stores for under $10), and any tools needed to access your water pump bypass kit. Use your owner's manual to locate the water heater bypass valve — you'll want to bypass the water heater so you're not pumping antifreeze into it. Turn off the water heater and let it cool completely before draining it. Never drain a hot water heater — the pressure release could cause burns. Empty the fresh water tank by opening the low-point drains, then run the pump briefly to move water through the lines.
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Blowing Out the Plumbing

The compressed air method is the most thorough way to remove water from the lines before adding antifreeze. Connect a blow-out plug to your city water inlet and attach the air compressor (use no more than 50 PSI — higher pressure can damage fittings and seals). Open each faucet one at a time — hot and cold — starting with those farthest from the water inlet and working your way forward. Hold each one open until the water flow stops. Repeat for the toilet, outside shower, and ice maker line if equipped. Blow out the washing machine connection if present. Finally, open the low-point drain valves while air is flowing to clear those lines. The air method removes most of the water but rarely all of it — residual moisture in p-traps and low spots makes a follow-up antifreeze treatment recommended for areas with severe freezing temperatures.
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Adding RV Antifreeze

RV antifreeze (propylene glycol, non-toxic, pink) protects any remaining moisture in the system from freezing. With the water pump bypass kit installed (so the pump draws from an antifreeze bottle rather than the fresh water tank), run each faucet until you see the pink antifreeze appear — that confirms the line is protected. Do this for every hot and cold faucet, the toilet flush, the outside shower, and the ice maker line. Pour a small amount of antifreeze directly into each drain — sink drains, shower drain, toilet bowl — to protect the p-traps. Also pour some into the toilet bowl and flush it through. Add antifreeze to any exterior drains as well. Some owners also add a cup to the fresh water tank to protect the tank itself if any moisture remains.
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Storage Preparation

Beyond the plumbing, proper storage preparation protects your investment through the off-season. Disconnect and store the house batteries (or use a battery maintainer to keep them at float charge — batteries that sit discharged through winter will sulfate and fail). Remove all food and consumables from the refrigerator, cupboards, and pantry — rodents and insects will find anything left behind. Prop the refrigerator door open slightly to prevent mold. Remove all medications and personal care items that can freeze. Check tire pressure and inflate to the maximum recommended pressure for storage. If storing for more than 2–3 months, consider placing the RV on tire cradles or flat boards to prevent flat-spotting. Apply a UV protectant to all rubber seals and tires. Cover the RV if storing outdoors — a quality cover protects the roof and seals from UV damage and reduces cleaning in the spring.
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Ready to Get Started?

Winterization takes a few hours and costs $30–$100 in supplies but prevents repairs that can run into thousands of dollars. Do it every year before temperatures drop below freezing, follow the steps in order, and document what you did for your records. When spring arrives, flush the antifreeze from the system with fresh water, check all the seals you prepared last fall, and you're ready to camp.
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Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use regular antifreeze to winterize an RV?
Absolutely not. Automotive antifreeze (ethylene glycol) is toxic and must never be used in an RV's water system. Use only non-toxic RV antifreeze (propylene glycol, typically pink or red). It's safe for drinking water systems and will not harm you, your plumbing, or the environment.
Do I need to winterize if I'm storing the RV in a heated garage?
If the storage temperature will stay consistently above 32°F throughout the winter, you may be able to skip the plumbing winterization. However, it's still a good idea because garages can occasionally get colder than expected and you may forget the RV is in there when temperatures drop. At minimum, drain the water heater and blow out the lines if there's any chance of a freeze.
How do I de-winterize my RV in the spring?
Open all the low-point drains and drain any antifreeze remaining in the system. Install fresh drain caps. Restore the water heater bypass to normal position. Connect to a water source and run each faucet until clear water runs — the antifreeze is non-toxic but tastes terrible. Run the water heater and test all appliances. Inspect the roof and seals before your first trip.

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